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Wingspan:
92 1/4"
OHIO MODEL PLANES 4224 Pennywood Drive Beavercreek, Ohio 45430 (937) 429-3056 email: omp@ohiomodelplanes.com |
Thank you for purchasing the new "Hybrid" Edge 540 Fun Fly. In our continuing effort to bring the ultimate in performance to our customers, we have blown away the existing envelope of traditional fun fly planes by merging the aerodynamic characteristics of our popular profiles with that of traditional giant scale aircraft. OMP sincerely values your opinions and feedback on the construction, this manual, and the performance of the new 92" Hybrid Edge 540. Please provide all comments to omp@ohiomodelplanes.com with "Hybrid Comments" in the title. We also welcome pictures and video clips of your completed aircraft.
Again, thank you and I hope you will enjoy the Edge 540 "Hybrid" Profile as much as we have – Mike Pilkenton.
A QUICK WORD ABOUT SAFETY AND RADIO CONTROL FLYING MODELS
With radio control aircraft, like any hobby or sport, there are certain risks. The operator of these models are responsible for these risks. With this in mind, you will want to be certain that you build your model carefully and correctly. If you are not an experienced flier, have your work checked and ask for help in learning to fly safely. This model aircraft is not a toy and must be operated and flown in a safe manner at all times. Always perform a pre-flight check of the model including all control surfaces, proper function of the radio gear, structure, radio range, and any other area relating to the safe operation of this aircraft.
Models are not insurable but operators are. You can obtain coverage through membership in the Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA). For an AMA information package call 1-800-435-9262, ext. 292 or visit the AMA website at "www.modelaircraft.org".
The recommended engine range for the Hybrid Profile Edge 540 is a 40 - 60 cc gasoline engine. The Hybrid Profile was designed to use low pitch props. What you need is air flow and vertical performance, not straight-line speed. We recommend using the lowest pitch, highest diameter propeller you can find for your particular engine. The use of high pitch props can cause air "cavitation" around the prop blades during hovering or slow vertical maneuvers. Air cavitation may sound neat but it's not what you want because the prop is no longer biting into "clean air" and you may loose altitude very quickly; so be wise when selecting your prop.
Note1: As with all kits, it’s a good idea to read all the instructions and study the plans before you begin construction. Questions or comments can be directed to omp@ohiomodelplanes.com.
Note2:
To print this manual click here and
for a "no frames" printable version.
Edge 540 Hybrid Profile Material List: (balsa except where noted)
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Stick
Pack: Balsa Sheet Pack 1: Balsa Sheet Pack 1: |
Small Parts Pack: 1/8 x 1/4 x 12" (1) 1/4 x 3/8 x 12" (1) 3/8 x 1/2 x 12" (1) 1/2 x 3/4 x 12" (1) 3/8 x 2.5 x 7" (1) 1/2 x 1.5 x 6 (1) 1/4 x 3/8 x 5 3/8 basswood (8) 1/4 x 3/4 sq. balsa (2) 1/4 x 3/4 sq. ply (4) 1/8 dowel x 6" (1) 1/4 dowel x 1" (2) 1/2 dowel x 1/2" (2) 1/2 dowel x 1.5" (4) 3/4" sq. x 2.5" hardwood (2) 1/2" x 3/4" x 2.75" hardwood (2) 1/16 ply gear bottom plate (laser cut) (1) 1/8 ply tail gear mount (1) 1/4 ply engine mount (1) Laser Cut Parts: Other Kit Items: Wing Tube set Main Landing gear Full Size Plans and CD manual Wheel Pants (2) |
Materials required to complete kit:
4-40 pushrods (6)
4-40 clevises (6)
4-40 solder clevises (6)
single control horns (6)
double rudder control horn
pull-pull cable system
nylon pushrod and clevis for throttle
hinges
3.5” main wheels and axles
1" tail wheel and assembly
Four 1/4" x 20 wing bolts
engine, prop, and spinner
fuel tank
covering
radio gear
A Builder's Tip Concerning Wood Usage From OMP: When building kits that have many sticks such as profile style aircraft, always use the shortest piece you have available or left over for the current task you are working on. This will assure you have adequate stock and lengths for all structures.
1. Begin by building the fuselage sides out of the 8 sheets of 3/32" x 4" x 48" balsa provided. Use the diagram below and be sure to edge sand all pieces so that you achieve proper glue joints between the sheets. Make sure the top and rear are square to each other. The bottom edge will be trimmed off later so just allow a little extra for now. Sand both sides smooth after the glue dries.
2. Using the plans as a guide, glue one of the 1/8" lite-ply fuselage sides to the front of the balsa sides. Make sure the ply side is flush to the top of the fuselage. After the glue dries, cut out the wing tube and front wing bolt holes and use these to mark and cut out the opposing balsa side (make left and right hand sides) so that you assure both fuse doublers are exactly aligned to each other.
3. Use a straight edge to cut off the balsa from the rear edge of the fuse to 1/8" below the bottom corner of the lite-ply fuse doubler as indicated on the plans and the diagram below. Trim the rest of the balsa flush with the ply doubler. Using the plans, mark lines on the fuse sides for the 1/4" sq. balsa vertical pieces.
4. Glue on the top and bottom 1/4" sq. balsa stringers making sure they are flush to the edge of the sheeting. You will need to splice the balsa together toward the rear of the fuselage to get the extra length. Note that the top stringer fits flush into the notch formed by the ply doubler and that you will need to leave 1/8" gap at the end of each stringer for the rear fuselage former. Cut and glue the rest of the 1/4" sq. balsa in place using the plans as a guide. Complete both sides now.
5. Cut and glue in place the 1/4" sq. balsa stabilizer bracing exactly 3 3/16" down from the top of the fuselage (measured from the top of the fuselage to the top of the stab opening). Again, be sure to leave 1/8" gap at the end. Glue the bottom stab brace on leaving exactly 1/2" gap for the stabilizer. Tip: use a piece of 1/2" scrap balsa as a guide. After the glue dries, cut out the stabilizer opening according to the plans.
6. Glue in the tail servo mounts making sure you offset the left and right hand sides according to the plans. Double up each servo mount (two per side). Glue two H3 hatch supports to each side as shown on the plans (one on top of the other). Cut a piece of 1/4" x 3/4" sq. balsa and glue in place for the rear wing mounting bolts. Glue WB2 over the top of this piece. Also glue in place WB1 and WS to each side.
7. Now take the wing tube socket and one of the R1 ribs and slide them over the fuselage side as a guide to mark the rear mounting hole. Make sure you have the rib right-side up and use the front mounting hole to set the rib in place. Drill the rear mounting hole using a 1/4" drill bit. Also mark and cut out the 3/4" diameter hole for the aileron servo wires. Do both fuselage sides now.
8. If you plan to use the stock firewall position, you may drill out the 1/8" holes for the F1 dowel pins using the pre cut laser holes as a guide. Otherwise you may accomplish this step once the firewall is installed.
Builder's Tip: Pin the sides together (outer side to outer side) aligning the wing and stab holes and then sand all perimeter edges flush. This will help assure a perfectly straight fuselage.
9. Glue F2 to F4 at exactly 90 degrees using epoxy. Then glue F3 to F2 at exactly 90 degrees using epoxy. Glue this assembly to the fuselage sides using epoxy. Align and pin the rear edges of the fuselage together, place the assembly flat on your building board, and weight the assembly down to assure tight glue joints.
10. Glue in place all F5-F9 formers and the 1/4" sq. balsa cross piece at the rear bottom edge of F4. Note that it will extend 1/8" below the main gear box.
11. Glue the 1/2" x 3/4" and 3/4" sq. hardwood main gear mounting blocks into the fuselage using epoxy. Glue the 1/16" ply main gear bottom plate in place as shown on the plans making sure it faces the correct direction.
12. Sheet the bottom of the fuselage using 1/16" x 4" balsa with the grain running crosswise. As shown on the plans, begin the sheeting on the 1/4" sq. balsa piece you just glued behind F4 and continue towards the rear. Trim 1/16" off the bottom of the fuselage to allow for the 1/8" x 3" plywood tail gear mount. When satisfied with the fit, glue the mount in place. Builder's Tip: Make sure the fuselage is perfectly flat on your building board by putting weights on the front and rear edges of the fuselage while gluing the bottom sheeting in place.
13. The engine firewall can be installed in the stock location as indicated on the plans or moved aft to accommodate longer engines. Plan ahead at this point and decide what position you will require for your engine. Epoxy the F1 former in place and clamp the sides to assure a tight glue joint. Make sure you align the bulkhead properly. Drill 1/8" holes approximately 3/4" deep from the sides into the firewall using the guide holes previously drilled (stock location only). Cut small lengths of 1/8" dowels and epoxy them into the holes. Sand flush after the glue dries.
14. Using the templates provided on the plans, build the turtle deck sides using the two 1/16" x 3" x 36" balsa sheeting provided. Cut and glue in place the 1/4" sq. balsa bracing as indicated on the plans. Be sure to leave 1/8" gap at the front and rear edges for the formers. Pin both sides together and sand all edges flush. This will assure both sides are the same.
15. Align each turtle deck side on the fuselage and tape in place along the outside seam. Run a bead of glue along the seam and pivot each side up holding them together at the top. Glue F9A in place at the rear. Sand a bevel at the bottom edge of F7B and glue in place making sure the top edges are aligned evenly. Finally, sand the top edge of the turtle deck sides flat and glue on the 1/8" x 1" balsa capping. Sand flush on all sides after the glue dries.
16. Cut approximately 4 1/4" of wing tube socket and glue into the fuselage making sure you maintain straight and flat fuselage sides. Sand outer edges flush with the fuselage sides once the glue has cured.
17. Glue the 1/4" lite-ply donuts onto F1A and F1B assuring proper alignment (hint: use a 1/4" drill bit shank to align the ply donuts on the formers. Glue F1A in place behind F1 making sure the donuts face forward. Glue the 3/4" long 1/4" hardwood dowels into F1B making sure they are straight. Sand the front of each dowel round and open each hole in F1A if required for a smooth fit using a small round file.
18. Build the cowling top sides (left and right sides) using the 3/32 balsa and 1/8" x 1/4" balsa strips on the bottom edge and 1/4" balsa triangle on the top edge. Allow 1/8" gap at the rear edge for F1A. Glue in place making sure the outer edges are flush with the fuselage sides. Also glue in place the 1/4" sq. balsa front cowling edge support as shown below.
19. Sand the top cowling frame smooth using a flat sanding block. Glue two pieces of 1/8" x 4" balsa together to form a sheet roughly 5.5" x 8" wide with the grain running side to side. Using water or water/ammonia mix, wet the balsa and bend around the top portion of the cowling. Glue in place using thick CA and sand all edges flush once cured.
20. Build the canopy/hatch sides out of the two sheets of 3/32 x 4 x 36" balsa provided and the templates provided on the plans and below. Begin by cutting two pieces of 3/32" balsa 1.25" wide x 32" long for the bottom sections. Glue the other two pieces together and trim off the rear edge of the canopy flush. Place one of the canopy sides in place, mark the front, and trim off the excess. Sand any irregularities at the rear edge to achieve the proper fit. Glue 1/4" sq. balsa to the bottom edge and 1/4" balsa triangle to the top edge leaving 1/8" gap at the front edge for F1B and 1/8" gap at the rear for F7A. Also glue in the 1/4" sq. balsa side bracing as shown on the plans.
21. Install F1B into F1A using wax paper between the two and also between F7A and the turtle deck. Glue the canopy/hatch sides to F1B and F7A.
22. Glue the F5A former in place and the H1 hatch alignment tabs to the hatch. Glue a small piece of 1/4" x 1/2" balsa scrap to the canopy rear lip and the H2 hatch hold down tabs as shown on the plans. With the canopy fully seated on the fuselage, drill 1/8" holes through the fuselage sides in the center of the hold down tabs. Install 4-40 blind nuts on the inside of the H2 tabs.
23. Sand the top edges of the canopy/hatch and sheet using 1/16" balsa (grain running crosswise). Hint: Glue enough sheeting together first and mark according to the canopy width at the top and bottom edges. Use a straight edge to assure an even look. Sand all edges smooth and flush with the fuselage sides. Finally glue in place short pieces of 1/4" x 1/2" balsa and the H1 and H2 lite-ply hatch mounting tabs as shown on the plans. Install the canopy-hatch and drill 1/8" holes through the H2/H3 mounting tabs and use 4-40 cap head bolts and blind nuts for final attachment.
24. Glue the 1/4" sq. balsa bottom cowling edge supports in place and sheet with 1/8" balsa in a similar fashion as you did for the top. The pictures below show how the author made cutouts for the inverted pitts muffler fitted for a DA-50 engine. Many other engine and muffler combinations are possible so plan ahead now before you cover your model.
25. Trial fit the main gear in place and drill four pilot holes through the gear and into the hardwood mounting blocks. Now tap the hardwood for 10-32 bolts and harden the threads with thin CA. Drill out the four holes in the aluminum gear for the 10-32 bolts. Mount the gear during final assembly of the model.
26. This completes the basic fuselage construction. OMP recommends you trial fit your engine and muffler combination prior to final sanding and covering and make any modifications you require.
FIN & RUDDER CONSTRUCTION:
1. Begin by cutting and pinning in place the 3/8" x 1/2" fin post in place over the plans. Cut and glue in place the 1/4” x 3/8" balsa top and bottom piece and the 3/8" sq. front piece.
2. Now carefully cut and glue in place the 1/8" x 3/8" balsa cross brace. After the glue dries, remove the fin and sand both sides smooth.
3. From one sheet of 1/16" x 4 x 48" balsa, cut two pieces 8" long each. Save the left over sheet for the stabilizer sheeting. Trim and splice each sheet as necessary to make the fin sides and glue to each side. Sand all sides square and the leading edge round after the glue dries.
4. Cut and pin in place the 1/2" sq. balsa rudder main post and the trailing edge piece.
5. From the 1/2" x 3/4" x 12" balsa provided, cut the bottom piece of the rudder using the plans as a guide. Cut and glue in place the front and rear corner braces as shown using the 1/2" x 1.5" x 6" balsa provided and the template provided on the plans. Note the direction of the grain.
6. Using 3/8" x 1/2" balsa, cut and glue in place the remaining rudder framing. Using 1/4" x 1/2" balsa, continue gluing in all the cross bracing as indicated on the plans. Securely glue with CA as you go along.
7. Remove the fin and rudder from your building board and cut the hinge stock from 3/8" balsa triangle for both the rudder and fin. Using thick CA, glue one of these to the rudder making sure you have it absolutely centered. Use pins to secure the alignment as you work from one side to the other.
8. Once the glue has dried, remove all pins and sand both sides of the fin and rudder smooth using a large flat sanding block. Shape edges as desired.
9. Glue the fin to the rear of the fuselage making sure it is properly centered and straight up and down. Also make sure all the glue joints are good and tight. Cut two pieces of 3/8" x 1/2" balsa the proper length and with the proper angle at the top edge and glue these to either side of the fin post. The plans show a bottom view of the fuselage and fin post construction. Glue the other 3/8" balsa triangle stock to the rear of the fin again making sure it is centered. Sand the fin trailing edge so that is blends smoothly into the fuselage sides.
10. Pre-hinge the rudder (4 hinges assuming 1" sq. hinges) by cutting appropriate slots in the fin and rudder as indicated on the plans. Make sure you cut the slots for each hinge dead center on the triangle stock. Trial fit the rudder in place to assure proper alignment but do not glue the hinges in until final assembly of the model.
STABILIZER & ELEVATOR CONSTRUCTION:
1. From a 3/8" x 1/2" x 48" balsa stick, cut a piece for the stabilizer trailing edge. Laminate the 1/4" x 3/8" hardwood spar to this piece making sure you keep the assembly flat and straight. The use of a straight edge and flat table make this quick and accurate. This assembly forms the stabilizer trailing edge. Trim the ends square and to the proper length according to the plans and then pin in place.
2. Lay the 3/8" x 2.5" x 7" piece of balsa provided over the illustration on the plans, mark and cut the stabilizer center section out as shown and then glue in place.
3. Cut and glue in place the 3/8" square balsa leading edge and end pieces.
4. Using 1/8" x 3/8" balsa, cut and glue in place the center cross bracing as shown on the plans. Make accurate cuts so that all glue joints are strong!
5. Remove the stabilizer from your building board and sand both sides smooth. Cut three pieces of 1/16" x 4 x 28" balsa using three of the 48" long sheets provided. Use the left over piece from the fin sheeting as the fourth piece. Edge glue these together making two pairs 8" x 28" and glue to both sides of the stabilizer. Trim and sand all edges square after the glue dries.
6. Measure and cut the stab trailing edge hinge stock from a piece of 3/8" x 36" balsa triangle. Using thick CA, glue this piece in place making sure you have it absolutely centered on the stabilizer rear spar. Use pins to secure the alignment as you work from one side to the other.
7. Once the glue has dried, remove all pins and sand both sides of the completed stabilizer smooth using a large flat sanding block. The use of a razor plane makes quick work of shaping the leading edge.
8. Using 3/8" x 1/2" and 1/2" sq. balsa, cut and glue in place the elevator framing members as shown on the plans. Remember that all glue joints are important here as the elevators are light but work very hard in this model!
9. Cut and glue in place the remaining 1/4" x 1/2" balsa cross bracing as shown on the plans.
10. From the 1/2" x 1.5" x 6" balsa provided, use the illustration on the plans as a guide and cut out the elevator corner braces. Check the fit, sand for any corrections and glue in place when satisfied.
11. Remove the elevators from your building board and drill a 1/2" hole for each hard point. Glue the 1/2" diameter x 1/2" long hardwood dowels in place with epoxy.
12. Measure and cut the hinge stock from 3/8" balsa triangle. Using thick CA, glue this piece in place making sure you have it absolutely centered on the stabilizer rear spar. Use pins to secure the alignment as you work from one side to the other.
13. Once the glue has dried, remove all pins and sand both sides of the completed elevators smooth using a large flat sanding block.
14. Pre-hinge the elevators (4 per side) by cutting appropriate slots in the stab and elevators as indicated on the plans. Make sure you cut the slots for each hinge dead center on the triangle stock. Also make sure you do not drill or cut into the hardwood stabilizer spar. Trial fit the elevator in place to assure proper alignment but do not glue the hinges in until final assembly of the model. Match sand the leading edge of the elevators to the stabilizer now.
Note that the wing is a double tapered symmetrical wing. The top of the wing is flat from tip to tip and the bottom of the wing tapers upward towards the tip. Begin by building the left wing upside down on the plans following the instructions below and the solid lines on the plans. When repeating the instructions for the right wing panel, use the dashed lines on the plans for construction.
1. Two jigs are provided for the wing trailing edge which allows you to build each wing panel flat on your building board. Take the lite-ply piece marked “Wing Jig” and the piece marked "Aileron Jig" and glue on pieces of scrap balsa sticks left over from the previous construction to the bottom edges of the jig and pin it flush to the building board. The wing jig will run the length of the trailing edge and support the rib trailing edges at the correct height off of the building board. The aileron jig will support the trailing edge of the ailerons. Note that the taller end of the jig is the "root" end and must rest under the R1 rib only.
2. Build the R1 rib assemblies by gluing the R1A balsa ribs to each R1 lite-ply ribs making sure you build a left and right hand side. Glue in place the 1/4" by 3/4" sq. hardwood wing bolt blocks into the openings provided on each R1A. It is easier to drill and tap the mounting holes now. Tap the holes to accept a 1/4" x 20 thread wing bolt.
3. Glue the WR2-4 wing tube supports to each R2-R4 respectively again making sure you build a left and right hand side. The rib labels should face down at this time since you first build the wings upside down. Also glue each SM1 to the appropriate R3, R4, R6, and R7 again making sure each is glued on the proper side for left and right wings. Tip: Use the wing tube socket to make sure you have the ribs properly aligned.
4. Draw center lines on the R1 and R10 ribs (use fuselage drawing to locate R1 center line). Using the plans as a guide, mark all rib locations with a soft pencil along the wing jig, top spar, WS1, WS2, AS1, and AS2.
5. Pin one of the 1/4” x 3/8" basswood wing spars in place over the plans.
6. Glue each rib to the lower spar at exactly 90 degrees assuring each rib is fully seated onto the spar. Note that R1-R4 MUST be glued in place upside down in order for the wing tube holes to line up. The wing tube will be parallel to your building board at this time. Use thick CA to tack glue the ribs to the jigs.
Important Builder’s Tip: Double-check the alignment of the ribs by measuring the height of the center lines drawn on the root and tip ribs. The LE and TE heights should be equal for each individual rib. Shim the ends of the wing jig to make any minor corrections.
7. Glue the top spar in place making sure it is fully seated into the notches of each rib and aligned on the pencil marks you previously made.
8. Glue the laser cut 1/8" balsa sub-leading edge WS1 to the front of the ribs. Note that it will fit in front of R1 and R1A and that the edge marked top will be closest to your board at this time. Glue the laser cut trailing edge WS2 sub spars in place (one on top and bottom) making sure each is fully seated and flush against the respective notches in each rib. Repeat for the two AS1 spars and the AS2 aileron trailing edge onto the rear edge of each rib making sure the piece is centered top to bottom and fully seated onto the ribs. Finally glue in place the SR1 aileron root rib.
9. Using pieces of 1/16” balsa cut from one 4” x 48” sheet provided, glue in place the shear webbing as shown on the plans. Note that the shear webbing will not extend all the way from rib to rib as this is not necessary. Follow the plans noting that shear webs are placed in front and behind the spar from R1 to R6. This step will "lock in" the angle of the ribs so again, make sure you are accurate. Start at the root and work toward the tip. The strength of the wing depends on the shear webbing so don’t be stingy with the glue. The grain should run vertically!
10. Cut the remaining wing tube socket exactly in half and slide one into the wing. Glue to each rib using thin CA at first to secure in place and then use epoxy or thick CA around each joint to securely glue to all ribs. Glue in place the 1/8" balsa end cap.
11. Using a long sanding block, carefully sand the top of the ribs at the spar location to remove any irregularities. Also sand the sub-leading edge and the trailing edge pieces flush to the tops of the ribs. The use of a razor plane makes trimming these pieces much easier.
12. Four 1/16” by 1 3/4” by 48" balsa sheets have been provided for the trailing edge sheeting. Glue one of these to the top of the ribs as shown on the plans. Make sure the edge of the sheeting is flush with the rear edge of the sub-TE stock. Minor differences at the trailing edge can be block sanded out later.
13. Four sheets of 1/16” x 4” x 48” and two sheets of 1/16" x 3 x 36" balsa have been provided for the LE sheeting of both wings. Edge sand these pieces and cut the two 3" x 36" sheets in half from corner to corner. Glue each of these to the four 4" x 48" sheets as shown in the diagram below. Build all four sets now ands set three aside for later use.
14. Take one sheet and place it over the wing with the front edge overlapping the WS1 sub-leading edge (it’s ok to let it overhang here a little). You should be able to easily bend the thin balsa over the ribs (wet the balsa if necessary). Now mark both ends of the sheeting at the half way point of the main spar and cut off the excess sheeting from end to end. Your goal is to have the final sheeting glued in place and cover at least half the main spar. This allows the rib cap strips and center sheeting something to glue to.
15. Before gluing the LE sheeting on, it is critical to make sure R1 is perfectly straight from LE to TE. If necessary, pin blocks of wood to your building board on the inboard and outboard sides of R1 to hold it in alignment or clamp a straight board along the outside. When satisfied, glue the the front edge of the sheeting to WS1using thick CA. Masking tape can be used to hold the sheeting in place. Once the front edge is secure, hold up the sheeting (without breaking it!) and apply thick CA to the tops of each rib and along the main spar. Now begin at the root and press the sheeting down in place using masking tape to anchor it along the way. Work your way out from the root and make sure you do not pull the ribs out of alignment!
16. Using 1/16” x 4" x 48" balsa, sheet the inboard section of the wing between R1 and R2 from the main spar to the TE sheeting. Begin by cutting three pieces of sheeting 4.5" long and gluing them together on a flat building board. Build all four sheets now, sand both sides smooth, and set three aside. Take one sheet, place in position over the wing, mark, and trim to fit. Glue in place when satisfied with the fit.
17. Build the servo bay area by gluing in place two precut 1/4”x 3/8" basswood servo rails into the slots in R3 and R4 and two rails into the R6 and R7 slots. Cut and glue in place two pieces of 1/4" sq. balsa between the rails to form the servo side supports. Use the plans and your servos as a guide to locate the proper position. Repeat for the other servo bay. Sand smooth once the glue cures.
18. Sheet the servo bay between R3 and R4 using 1/16” x 4" balsa. Cut five pieces of 1/16" x 4" balsa 5.25" long and glue together three sheets for the inboard bay and two sheets for the outboard bay. Place in position, mark and trim each to fit, and glue each in place. Finally, cut the sheeting away for your servo openings.
19. Glue the four laser cut aileron hard-point supports into their respective notches as shown on the plans. Make sure you install these so that they are flush with the subsequent sheeting installed in the next step. Hint: Lay a straight edge over the ribs to assist in alignment and glue in place with thin CA.
20. Build the aileron sheeting using 5 sheets of 1/16" x 4 x 48" balsa. Take one sheet and cut it in half lengthwise making two pieces 2" x 48" each. Now cut these two pieces in half from one corner to the opposite corner forming four long triangle pieces. Glue one each to each of the 4" x 48" sheets forming all four aileron sheets at this time. Set three aside and glue one to the top of the aileron using thick CA.
21. Using strips of 1/16” x 3/8” balsa provided, glue in place the rib caps on all exposed ribs. Note that the rib cap on R10 should be flush to the outside of the rib.
22. This completes this side of the wing. Remove the wing from the building board, flip over and secure back in place using the jigs provided. Again, measure the center lines of the root and tip ribs to assure a straight wing.
23. Repeats steps 11 through 16 above for the LE, TE, and inboard sheeting.
24. Glue on the remaining aileron sheeting and rib caps.
25. Cut off the aileron using a razor saw to cut the balsa ribs at the hinge line. Carefully trim away the excess balsa at the trailing edge of the wing and the leading edge of the aileron.
26. Remove the wing from your building board and block sand the leading and trailing edge sheeting flush with the sub spars. Be careful when sanding the rib trailing edges so that you do not break them. Glue the 3/8" x 1 3/8" balsa leading edge in place using tape to secure to the wing. Make sure you center the stock on the leading edge. Repeat for the 3/8" x 1 3/4" trailing edge stock.
27. Cut off excess stock at the wing root and tip and sand smooth. Sand and shape the leading and trailing edges. A razor plane and large block sander will be useful here. The trailing edge should be tapered to allow for maximum aileron throw. To accomplish this first sand the balsa trailing edge stock flush to the top and bottom sheeting. Then draw a line from the center of the root to the center of the tip (this is your hinge line). Also draw lines on the top and bottom 3/16" back from the trailing edge or at the center of the 3/8" wide balsa. Using these lines as a guide and a razor plane and sanding block, shape the balsa to achieve a tapered hinge line.
28. Glue the 3/32" balsa wingtip in place and sand to shape after the glue dries. Save the rear portion for capping the aileron.
29. Using a drill press, drill and tap the 1/2" diameter hard-points provided to accept an 8-32 bolt. Carefully cut out the 1/2" holes for the hard-points in the aileron sheeting and test fit each piece. When satisfied with the fit, epoxy each in place and sand flush to the sheeting after the glue dries.
30. Sand the leading edge of the aileron sheeting flush with the sub spar again being careful not to break any ribs or glue joints. Glue the 1/16" x 1 3/8" leading edge capping followed be the 3/4" triangle balsa hinge stock making sure both pieces are exactly centered on the aileron. You will need to splice the 3/4" triangle stock near the wing tip to achieve the required length. Sand the 1/16" balsa flush to the triangle stock and the aileron sheeting once the glue has cured.
31. Cut off any excess stock at the ends and sand flush to the ribs. Cap both ends with the 3/32" balsa provided. Sand all edges smooth after the glue cures.
32. Repeat the wing assembly instructions for the "right-hand" wing panel.
33. It’s easier to pre-hinge the ailerons at this point before covering. Make sure you cut the slots for each hinge dead center on the hinge line. Trial fit everything together to assure proper alignment but do not glue in the hinges in place until final assembly. Now is also a good time to install some servo wire tunnels. These can be easily made be rolling some paper and wax paper around a 1/2" dia. dowel and thin CA.
1. Trial fit your engine and mark the location for each mounting hole. Drill the holes and mount your engine using appropriate bolts, washers and locking nuts. Use thin CA on the inside of the holes to harden them up. There are many engine and muffler combinations available. A header and canister arrangement is also easily accommodated given the generous fuselage volume. Careful planning should allow many possibilities. Complete the engine and muffler installation by making any necessary cutouts in the cowling sides. When satisfied with the complete installation, remove the engine and muffler so the model can be properly covered and sealed.
2. You can cover the individual parts before assembly or cover the entire model once assembled. Most modelers find it easier to cover the parts first and then assemble the model. If you choose this method, be sure you leave enough bare wood at the stabilizer center were it will be glued into the fuselage.
3. Trial fit the stabilizer into the fuselage. Sand the opening on either side if required to assure proper fit and alignment. Temporarily install the wings onto the fuselage using the aluminum wing tube and 1/4-20 bolts. When satisfied with the stabilizer fit, glue in place making sure the stab is centered side to side and parallel to the wing. Measure the distance from wing tip to stabilizer tip on each side to assure proper alignment.
4. Trial fit each of the control surfaces using the hinge slots you previously cut. When satisfied with the fit and function, glue in each hinge permanently.
5.
Be sure to seal any exposed wood with a thin coating of epoxy to prevent engine oil from soaking in. This is especially important around the engine compartment, servo openings, and wing roots. OMP recommends sealing the hinge gaps using strips of appropriate covering after final assembly.6. Mount engine and muffler using locktight on all bolts and nuts. Securely mount the fuel tank of appropriate size (16-20 oz) inside the fuselage. Install the fuel lines as desired.
7. Mount the main landing gear using four 10-32 bolts. Mount the wheel pants and 3.5" wheels making sure the wheel pants are securely anchored to the gear. Finally, mount a suitable tail wheel assembly to the hardwood mount in the rear of the fuselage.
You will require at least 8 servos for this model. We recommend 150 to 180 in-oz torque servos for the elevators, 200 in-oz total for the ailerons (two 100 oz servos will work) and one giant scale servo which can deliver over 200 in-oz of torque for the rudder. A good computer radio will allow you to accomplish all the necessary mixing and servo matching in the transmitter without the need for onboard matchboxes or fancy programmers. A good computer radio will also greatly enhance the maneuverability of your model. A good example would be coupling the elevators to the flaps. This can be done in both directions. For example you can mix up flaps with down elevator (and vise versa) for really tight turns or loops. Or you mix up flaps with up elevators for quick descent elevators.
1. Install the wing servos using extensions as required. You can either match the servos and use a Y-harness or plug each servo into a separate channel and mix together in your transmitter.
2. Install the tail servos into their respective sockets and pull the wires through the fuselage using a piece of string or long nylon pushrod. Secure the wires inside the fuselage so they don't interfere with the rudder cables.
3. Now is a good time to check your models balance point. The following components can be moved forward or aft to aid in properly balancing the model.
4. Install the throttle servo in an appropriate location inside the fuselage. Use a 2-56 nylon pushrod and clevis to finish off the throttle linkage. Do not use a metal pushrod as this can transmit RF interference back from the engine to the radio gear. Make sure you have the proper throws set for idle and full.
5. Install your rudder servo by constructing appropriate rails and supports inside the fuselage. Use a pull-pull cable system for the rudder and pay careful attention to the cable and control horn geometry to assure proper, no binding operation.
6. Install all control horns solidly into the hardwood dowels at each location. Use 4-40 pushrods, clevises, and lock nuts at each location.
7. Wrap the receiver in foam and secure into the fuselage. Also install the battery and switch securely into the fuselage.
8. This aircraft is extremely aerobatic! If you are not used to flying an extremely responsive aircraft you should set the initial throws to under 30 degrees of movement all around. More experienced pilots will want to set the throws to as much as 45 degrees or more. The use of dual rates and exponential is highly recommended for obvious reasons.
With a wing this big, there is literally a wide margin for balancing this aircraft. However to perform properly without being too squirly, you must not go too aft on the CG. An initial balance point of about 1/2" behind the center of the wing tube is the recommended starting point.
Note: The best way to check your balance is to trim for level flight in the air at about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and then roll inverted. The aircraft should maintain level flight with very little to no down elevator. If the aircraft climbs when inverted then you’ve probably got your CG too far aft.
Again, thank you for purchasing the "Hybrid" Edge 540 Fun Fly. If you have any comments or questions about this manual or the aircraft please email “omp@ohiomodelplanes.com”.
OHIO MODEL PLANES
4224 Pennywood Drive
Beavercreek, Ohio 45430
(937) 429-3056
