Thank you for purchasing the OMP Fusion F3D Profile.  In our continuing effort to bring the best in performance to our customers, we have expanded our successful fun fly fleet to include the first pattern style profile here in the USA.  The Fusion F3D was designed to perform precise and crisp pattern and IMAC maneuvers effortlessly yet still retain the capability to let out all the stops for ultimate 3d flying- thus the "F3D" class is now born!  Through exhaustive research and development, the Fusion F3D has finally been realized and has exceeded even our expectations.  Now you can evolve your flying skills to a new level without having to spend a fortune on an expensive pattern or IMAC airplane.  The Fusion F3D offers the best of both worlds to the sport flyer at every level.  You can learn precision and 3D aerobatics at a very reasonable cost using standard radio equipment and readily available .61 to .91 size sport motors.  Our Fusion F3D offers the perfect blend of aerodynamic design parameters which allow you to perform anything you can imagine: F3A pattern, IMAC sequences, elevators, positive and inverted harriers, waterfalls, knife edge spins, positive and inverted flat spins, and of course rock solid hovers and torque rolls.   I hope you will enjoy the Fusion F3D Profile as much as we have – Mike Pilkenton.

A QUICK WORD ABOUT SAFETY AND RADIO CONTROL FLYING MODELS

    With radio control aircraft, like any hobby or sport, there are certain risks.  The operator of these models are responsible for these risks.  With this in mind, you will want to be certain that you build your model carefully and correctly.  If you are not an experienced flier, have your work checked and ask for help in learning to fly safely.  This model aircraft is not a toy and must be operated and flown in a safe manner at all times.  Always perform a pre-flight check of the model including all control surfaces, proper function of the radio gear, structure, radio range, and any other area relating to the safe operation of this aircraft.

    Models are not insurable but operators are.  You can obtain coverage through membership in the Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA).  For an AMA information package call 1-800-435-9262, ext. 292 or visit the AMA website at "www.modelaircraft.org".

ENGINES, PROPELLERS AND MUFFLERS

    The recommended engine range for the Fusion F3D is a .91 2-stroke engine or a .91 to 1.10 4-stroke engine.  There are a tremendous variety of engines available and each type has its own advantages and disadvantages.  The 2-stroke engines are lighter and more powerful for their weight while the 4-stroke engines are somewhat heavier but are quieter and usually have better torque transition.  Additionally, the 4-strokers can turn a larger diameter prop that can deliver more airflow over the control surfaces.   Selecting the proper size of propeller for your particular engine is a very important part of the whole set up.  The Fusion F3D, as all 3d profiles, was designed to use low pitch props.  What you need is air flow and vertical performance, not straight-line speed.  We recommend using the lowest pitch, highest diameter propeller you can find for your particular engine.  The use of high pitch props can cause air "cavitation" around the prop blades during hovering or slow vertical maneuvers.  Air cavitation may sound neat but it's not what you want because the prop is no longer biting into "clean air" and you may loose altitude very quickly; so be wise when selecting your prop.  Also, please be aware that the power available in today's engines, while tremendously advantageous for 3d flying, can quickly lead to over speeding the plane.  Manage your throttle wisely to prevent over speeding and stressing the airframe.

Note1:  As with all kits, it’s a good idea to read all the instructions and study the plans before you begin construction.  Questions or comments can be directed to omp@ohiomodelplanes.com.

Note2:  To print this manual click here and for a "no frames" printable version.

Fusion F3D Material List: (balsa except where noted)

Materials required to complete kit:

• 4-40 pushrods w/clevises (6)

• control horns (5)

• hinges

• 1/4"-20 nylon wing bolt/wingnut

• 2.5” main wheels

• tail wheel and bracket

• engine, prop, and spinner

• fuel tank

• covering

• radio gear

FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION:

Note that the various hatch and servo openings are not cut through the foam.  This is to preserve the shape of the foam cores until the final construction steps where they will be completely trimmed out.

1.  The fuselage is constructed by first assembling the laser cut fuselage sides, the carbon fiber "I-beams", and then laminating them to the foam core using either thin epoxy or a quality polyurethane glue such as Gorilla brand glue or ProBond.  First locate all the laser cut 1/16" balsa and ply fuselage sides and test fit them together.  The picture below shows the layout.  Cut out the front hatch and save it for later.  There may be some play in the fit and this allows some slight adjustments of the parts.  Lay the parts over the plans and pin each corner in place to assure perfect alignment with the plans.

2.  Tape each seam with masking tape to lock in the overall shape and then flip the whole sheet over.  Using a flat sanding block, sand the seams flat as required, wipe off all sanding dust, and wick thin CA into each seam.  Wipe off excess glue quickly with a paper towel and you are done.  If you prefer not to use CA adhesives, you should cover the plans with wax paper and assemble the parts using your favorite adhesive.  Again, tape and pin the pieces in place over the plans to assure perfect alignment.  Sand smooth after the glue has cured.

3.  Now assemble the fuselage carbon fiber "I-Beams" by locating the six 1/8" x 3/4" x 36" balsa stock provided and the two 1/2" wide x 48" long carbon fiber beams.  You will have to splice the balsa together toward the rear of the fuselage as shown on the plans.  Use a miter box and cut approximately 45 - 60 degree cuts for a stronger joint.  Start by taking one of the balsa sticks provided, mark a location at 18.5" and make the miter cut at that location.  Use these two pieces for the rear of the top spar (see plans).  You can let the excess hang out the back and sand off later.  Glue the balsa pieces together at the joints you just made and then pin one of them to your building board by placing the pins close to the edges of the balsa and also making sure it is perfectly straight from end to end.  (hint:  use the edge of the paper plans as a guide).  Glue the carbon fiber beam on top of this using thick CA and making sure it is centered from side to side and flush to the front end.  Use wax paper or paper towels to press the beam into the wood for a secure bond.  Once the glue has cured, remove the pins and glue the other balsa beam on top of this using thick ca.  Again make sure it is centered and aligned with the bottom balsa beam and also flush to the front edge.  Repeat for the lower carbon beam.  Note the bottom piece of balsa can stop about 2" short of the rear as the tail gear mount will be glued in later.

4.  The engine mounting width can be tailored to fit your engine choice.  The foam core is precut to match the plans and engine width of most 90 size engines.  If you need to widen, simply lower the bottom engine beam and trim out the foam accordingly.  Plan carefully before you cut!  To make the engine mount, first cut the 1/2" sq. x 2" piece of balsa provided to match your engine mounting width and glue to rear of the 3/8" x 1/2" x 4 3/8" hardwood engine rails.  Next glue the 1/4" x 3/4" x 4.375" balsa piece provided to the bottom hardwood rail so that one edge is flush against the board (note the assembly will be flipped over later and this will eventually be on the left side of fuselage).  Trim the 3/8" x 1/2" x 2.75" balsa provided to fit over the top of the rear edge of the engine mount over the 1/2" sq. stock and engine rails and glue in place.  Glue the assembly to the top carbon beam assembly as shown on the plans paying attention to which side is left and right.

Note left two pictures show engine mount upside down relative to plans.

The third picture shows the completed assembly properly positioned over the plans.

5.  Locate the four foam cores, the two 1/2" x 3/4" x 1" balsa landing gear blocks, the carbon beams you just assembled, and the two fuselage side sheets.  Using your favorite glue such as epoxy or polyurethane (DO NOT use very much unless you want a heavy plane!), glue the front and rear foam cores together (top and bottom halves), the carbon beams to the top and bottom foam core assemblies, and the landing gear blocks into their respective sockets.  Make sure the engine mount assembly is also properly glued to the foam.  Use small strips of masking tape to hold the pieces together until the glue dries.  Use the plans as a guide when assembling the parts.

6.  Test fit the side sheeting over the foam core and align all corners to assure everything fits.  While you have one side aligned over the core, mark and cut out the holes for the two 1/4" wing anti-rotation pins.  It is important to have these aligned square from one side to the other.  Temporarily assemble the 1/4" dowels into the fuselage sides and make sure everything lines up.  Another technique is to use a square against your building board to align the sheets at all corners.  Also mark the outline for the tail servos on the left side.  Locate the two 1/8" lite-ply servo mounts and place them in position as shown on the plans.  Mark the outline and cut out the foam 1/8" deep so that they will sit flush to the top of the foam and under the sheeting.  Glue in place now with a small amount of 5-minute epoxy.  NOTE:  The right hand sheeting has the throttle servo opening and the left side has the front hatch opening!

Note:  Decide now if you prefer to use two elevator servos versus the provided torque rod system.  If so desired, position the second servo directly below the stock elevator servo so that the servo control horn would face up and the pushrods align on both sides.  Use scrap pieces of 1/8" lite ply to glue into the foam for the servo mounts and utilize the lower servo wire tunnel as needed.  See picture below:

7.  Do not worry about small nicks, scratches, or imperfections in the foam cores.  The foam is basically a filler for the fuselage structure and the sheeting, internal beams, and capping provide the majority of the strength.  Using a good foam-safe adhesive such as polyurethane, spread the glue evenly and thinly (you don't need much!) over the entire balsa sheeting and press down onto the foam core.  Follow the instructions of your glue as most urethane glues require a light mist of water on the opposing part to assist in the adhesion and curing process.  Use a smooth hardwood block about 1” x 2” by 10” long to slide along the sheeting as you press down firmly.  This technique allows even pressure without poking through the sheeting.  Repeat for the other side and carefully align all corners as emphasized above.  You may also temporarily install the 1/4" dowels to help alignment.  Tack several places along the bottom edge of the sheeting to bottom spar with CA and around the engine mount area to anchor the sheeting in place (don't get any CA on the foam!).  The expanding urethane glues can exert a lot of pressure and can actually slide the sheeting and weights off the edges.  Weight the entire fuselage assembly down with flat boards and weights such as water softener salt bags or bricks (about 300 lbs. is adequate).   

8.  After the glue cures, remove the weights, board, and fuselage from the building board.  Using a sanding block, sand the balsa sheeting flush to the foam but be careful not to sand into the foam and disturb the shape.

9.  Cap the top and ends of the fuselage using the two 1/8" x 1" x 36" balsa provided (note the balsa will overhang the fuselage slightly and will be sanded flush later).  Start with the turtle deck/canopy section first and cut the proper angle at the front of the canopy to fit tight against the fuse top.  You'll have to splice the capping about half way back the turtle deck.  Wet the balsa with water to help bend it around the canopy area and if necessary, cut small kerfs about every 1/2" or so half way through the balsa (foam side) using your razor saw.  Use polyurethane or epoxy glue and masking tape to securely hold the pieces in place on the fuselage until the glue dries.  Continue with the front deck by butting the end of the balsa up against the bottom front edge of the canopy.  This will help to hold the canopy balsa down while the glue dries.  Finish with the back and front capping strips.  Use a short piece of 1/4" x 1 1/8" balsa cut from one of the 36" pieces (about 1.25" max) for the bottom front chin piece.  Save this stick for capping the aileron later on.

10. Locate the 1/8" x 7/8" x 2.5" lite-ply tail wheel mount, trim any balsa required, and glue in place at the bottom rear of the fuselage as shown on the plans.  When the glue has cured, sand the capping flush to the fuselage on all sides and corners.  Notch the balsa to match the front of the engine mount.

11. Cut out the openings for the tail servos, the stabilizer, the throttle servo (right side), the front hatch (left side), the wing tube socket, and the wing bay hatches using a sharp x-acto knife.  Test fit your tail servos now and fine trim the openings as required.  Find the three stabilizer support pieces (two 3/8" thick and one 1/8" thick) and glue them together forming a 7/8" thick assembly.  Hint:  Use a few scraps of 3/8" balsa stick wedged into the stab opening to help alignment.  When cured, glue this assembly into the fuselage using foam-safe glue such as epoxy or urethane glue.  Sand both sides smooth after the glue cures.

12.  Locate the short piece of wing tube socket and test fit it into the fuselage.  Use a square and the aluminum wing tube temporarily installed to assure it is square front to back and up and down.  Glue in place using 5-minute epoxy and secure until the glue cures.  Sand both sides smooth and then glue in the 1/4" wing anti-rotation dowels so that they extend through both sides evenly.

13. Locate the two laser cut 1/16" ply FHS parts and slide them between the fuselage ply sheeting and foam as shown on the plans.  Glue in place by wicking thin CA around the joints.  These will form the support lip for the hatch which will later be secured with small screws. 

WING CONSTRUCTION

Note that the wing is a fully symmetrical wing and both panels are built almost exactly the same, upside down on your building board.  The only real difference is the location of the servo mounts and wing tube.  The Fusion has a flat top wing and the bottom tapers towards the tip.  

1.  The first thing we are going to do is assemble the unique ribs making sure we have both left and right hand parts.  You are going to like how fast these wings can be built!  Locate ribs R1-R8, R1A, R2A, R3A and R3B, and R4A.  Make left hand and right hand stacks.  Now glue on R1A – R4A to their respective ribs as shown on the plans.  Again, make sure you assemble both right and left hand ribs.  The aileron servo mounts are located on the bottom of the wing which will be on the top side of the ribs as you build it now.  Glue the 1/8" R1A to R1 making sure you have both ribs perfectly aligned.  Also glue in place the 1/16" ply donuts over the wing bolt holes (left and right hand side) as shown on the plans.

2.  Take two sheets of 1/16” x 3” x 36” balsa and one sheet of 1/16” x 4” x 36” balsa and edge glue them together as shown in the diagram below.  One technique is to edge sand the sheets first, tape them together tightly, flip the assembly over and wick thin CA into the seam.  Quickly wipe off the excess and sand smooth when dry.  Cut 4.5” off one end and save this for the inboard sheeting later.  Now cut from corner to corner of the 4” wide center piece making both top and bottom sheeting for the leading edge.

3.  Mark the rib locations accurately on the 1/4" sq. leading edge and top spar.  Lay out the wing plans and cover them with wax paper.  Take one of the leading edge sheets you just made and place it over the plans so that the rear edge covers half the width of the main spar.  The 3” wide continuous sheet should be toward the leading edge and the 4” angled piece against the spar.  You will notice the ends of the sheeting will be angled relative to the ribs so make sure you have the sheeting centered enough to cover both ends.  This technique places the seam on the top “less convex” portion of the ribs.  Now pin one of the 1/4" sq. balsa spars on top of the sheeting so it overhangs the sheeting by 1/8".  Once properly pinned in place, wick thin CA into the joint.

4.  Place all the ribs onto the bottom spar and pin in place through the rear alignment tabs.  Make sure each rib is exactly at 90 degrees to your building board and glue to the bottom spar using thin CA.  Be careful not glue the leading edge sheeting yet until you get a chance to pull it up later on.

5.  Now glue in place the top and leading edge 1/4" sq. spars and the four 1/8" x 1/4" trailing edge spars.  Make sure you keep the ribs square to the building board and in proper alignment.  Also glue in place AR1 and AR9 to the trailing edge spars as shown on the plans.  Make sure you have these aligned properly and pin them in place through the bottom tabs.

6.  Using a sheet of 1/16" x 3" x 36" balsa, cut and glue in place each of the shear webs as shown on the plans using thick CA.  You should only have to use about 12.5" of the sheet and be sure to save this sheet for later.  Make sure you have adequate glue joints on all shear webs and ribs and that R1 is at exactly 90 degrees to your board (this step will lock in the rib positions).  Also slide in one of the wing tube sockets and glue to each rib and shear web with adequate glue joints.  The outboard end of the tube should be flush with R3A as shown on the plans.  Finally glue a scrap piece of 1/8" balsa over the tube end and R3A to act as a wing tube stop.  It helps to poke a small hole in the center of this piece to allow air to escape when inserting the wing tube.

7.  Carefully sand the glue joints at the 1/4" sq. leading edge (top and bottom) and the joints at the top and rear spars.  Use a long flat sanding board and be careful not to break any of the joints.

8.  Now you are ready to pull up the leading edge sheeting and glue to the ribs and front spar.  It is critical that you maintain R1 in it's correct position: square to the building board and perfectly straight front to back.  You can temporarily pin alignment blocks to your building board to position the front of the rib or use a straight edge along the ribs length to assure it is flat.  Gently pull up the bottom sheeting and glue to the leading edge stock using thick CA.  You can soften the wood with water and/or ammonia to aid in bending it over the leading edge.  Hold in position until the glue dries and be careful not to pull the ribs out of alignment.  Wick thin CA between the sheeting and the ribs to secure these locations.  Trim off the excess sheeting and sand flush to the 1/4" sq. leading edge stock.

9.  Using thick CA, glue one of the 1/16" x 1" x 36" trailing edge sheeting on top of the ribs as shown on the plans.  Make sure the rear edge is flush or overhangs slightly with the back of the 1/4 x 1/8" stock.  Minor differences will be sanded flush later.  Also glue on the 1/16" x 4" x 36" aileron sheeting using thick CA.  Make sure you are flush or slightly overhang the 1/8" x 1/4" leading edge spar.  You will sand this flush to the spar later.  Be careful not to distort the shape and end rib positions and also make sure you hold the sheeting flat so all glue joints are tight.  

10. Take the other piece of leading edge sheeting you cut in step 2 and glue in place over the front of the wings using thick CA.  Test fit the piece first and like the bottom piece, position the rear edge half way over the 1/4" sq. main spar.  The 3” wide continuous sheet should be toward the leading edge and the 4” angled piece against the spar.  You will notice the ends of the sheeting will be angled relative to the ribs so make sure you have the sheeting centered enough to cover both ends.  Use water and/or ammonia to aid in bending it over the leading edge.

11. Sheet the inboard wing bay with the 1/16" balsa left over from step 2.  Sand the sheeting smooth if you have not already done so, lay over the wing, mark and trim accordingly.  When satisfied, glue in place using thick CA.

12. Build the servo bay area by gluing in place two of the 1/4”sq. x 4.5" basswood rails into the precut notches in R3 and R4.  Trial fit your servo and cut and glue in place a piece of 1/4" sq. balsa between the rails to support the sheeting.  Sand smooth once the glue cures.  Build the sheeting using one piece of 1/16" x 3" sheeting left over from the shear web sheet and one piece of 1/16" x 4" sheeting both cut to 4.5" long (cut this from a fresh sheet of 1/16" x 4" x 36").  Save the remainder of the sheets for the other side and other wing.  Glue together using the technique described in step 2.  Lay over the wing, mark, trim, and test fit.  When satisfied, glue in place using thick CA.

13. Cap off ribs R5 - R8 using the 1/16" x 1/4" balsa provided.  The rib cap on R8 should be flush with the outboard edge of the rib.  This completes this side of the wing.  Remove from your building board and flip the wing over.  Be careful not to break any of the glue joints around the aileron area when removing the wing.  Trim off the rib alignment tabs and gently sand any irregularities on all joints.  

14. Glue the other 1/16" x 1" balsa trailing edge sheeting again making sure the rear edge is flush or slightly hanging over the 1/8" x 1/4" spar.  Minor differences will be sanded flush later.

15. Now sheet this side of the inboard wing bay using two pieces of 4" wide balsa cut approximately 4.5" long.  Make sure you use the sheet left from step 12 above and not a full 36" sheet.  Edge glue these together first and sand the seam smooth.  Trial fit on the wing, mark, trim, and glue in place using thick CA.  Cap the remaining ribs using the 1/16" x 1/4" balsa provided.

Note: We are now going to complete the aileron construction but it is important to keep the aileron straight and flat against your building board when completing the top sheeting.  Since the leading edge sheeting of the wing completes the "D-tube" construction, the shape of the wing is locked into position and very stable.  Simply hold the trailing edge of the aileron flat against your building board for these next few step.

16. First glue in place the 1/16" x 1/4" balsa strip to the bottom sheeting and against the rear edge of the ribs.  Locate the 3/4" x 1" x 3/4" balsa block and block sand the bottom and inboard sides to fit snugly against the leading edge spars, bottom sheeting, and R4 rib.  Note the grain must run vertically on this piece.  Test fit and sand slowly and when satisfied, glue in place with thick CA.  Use a razor saw and sanding block to cut off the excess at the top and sand smooth with the surrounding structure.

17. Glue the 1/16" x 4" x 36" aileron top sheeting in place using  thick CA.  Make sure you are flush or slightly overhang the 1/8" x 1/4" leading edge spar and that you keep the aileron flat against your board while the glue dries.  When dry, cut the aileron off of the wing using a razor saw to cut through the ribs between the wing and aileron.  Carefully sand the trailing edge of the wing and leading edge of the aileron smooth with the 1/8" x 1/4" spars.

18.  Locate the 1/4" x 1 1/8" x 36" balsa provided and glue one each to the trailing edge of the wing and the leading edge of the aileron.  Make sure all glue joints are flush and block sand if needed.  Also make sure you allow the stock to extend past R8 for the wing tip assembly.

19.  Locate the laser cut pieces for the wing tip (wing tip and two outboard doublers).  Glue one doubler to the top and one to the bottom as shown in the photo and then glue the assembly to R8 and the wing trailing edge stock making sure it is centered on the trailing edge piece.  Glue the top and bottom triangle braces in place as shown on the plans and photos.  Finally cut the excess trailing edge stock off and sand flush to the wing tip.

20.  Use a razor plane and sanding block to shape the leading edge of the wing.  Also remove the excess balsa stock at the trailing edge with the razor plane and sand flush to the wing sheeting.  Taper the trailing edge stock at the wing tip to blend into the tip smoothly.  Draw a straight guide line through the center of the wing trailing edge and shape with a razor plane and sanding block.  Keep your razor plane and sanding block at a constant angle to assure accuracy.  Use the front corners of the 1/4" balsa stock as a guide for your angles.  Repeat the same procedures for the aileron.

21. This completes one wing and aileron construction.  Repeat for the other wing panel and when complete, give each panel a good final sanding in preparation for covering.  Make sure the leading edge is sanding round as shown on the side view on the plans.  The leading edge should become somewhat sharper toward the wingtip but still remain round.

22. The final step is to build the hatch in the left hand wing panel.  You can build this on either the top which is more convenient for assembly/disassembly or on the bottom which hides it from view.  Locate the laser cut 1/16" ply hatch and use it to trace out the opening as shown on the plans.  Carefully cut the balsa sheeting out and sand the edges just slightly enough to allow for covering clearance when the hatch is installed.  Locate the 1/16" x 1/2" x 2" balsa lip provided and glue to the front edge of the hatch as shown on the plans.  Note the front edge of the hatch is wider than the back to allow for mounting of a switch harness.  Now locate the two 1/8" x 1/2" x 3.5" balsa provided and the laser cut 1/16" x 1/2" x 3.5" screw down plate and glue these under the lip of the wing sheeting as shown on the plans.  Test fit the hatch and trim if necessary.  Secure in place with one or two small screws.

FLAT SURFACES CONSTRUCTION:

The stabilizer, elevators, fin, and rudder are all built in the same manner from 3/8" laser cut parts and 1/4" x 3/8" balsa stock provided.  Locate the proper laser parts for each sub assembly.  Note that a small letter denoting elevator (e), fin (f), and so on is etched on each part.  The general assembly procedure includes pinning down the laser parts, cutting the 1/4" x 3/8" balsa parts from available stock, and gluing together with CA.

1.   Construct the stabilizer and elevators first.  Locate all the appropriate 3/8" thick laser cut parts and pin in place.  From the 1/4" x 3/8" balsa stock provided, cut and glue in place all ribs.  When cured, unpin each assembly from your building board and sand both sides smooth.  Cut and glue in place the 1/4" triangle balsa hinge stock to the rear or the stabilizer and front of each elevator half.  Sand to blend the triangle stock into the assembly as necessary.

2.  Construct the fin and rudder in a similar fashion.  Locate the 3/8" x 3/4" balsa provided for the rudder bottom and the 1/8" x 3/8" balsa provided for the fin respectively.  Cut and glue in place the 3/8" balsa triangle stock onto the leading edge of the rudder.  NOTE:  Do not glue the triangle stock on the back of the fin until the fin is glued to the fuselage in a later step.

3.  Fine sand each surface smooth.  Shape all leading edges round but leave the trailing edges square as this helps to reduce flutter.  We recommend sanding the leading edge of the fin and fairing after you have glued the fin onto the fuselage (it is fragile until glued on the fuselage).

4.  Now glue the fin to the rear of the fuselage making sure it is properly centered and straight up and down.  Also make sure you have tight glue joints.  Cut two pieces of 1/4" x 3/8" balsa the proper length and with the proper angle at the top edge and glue these to either side of the fin post.  The plans show a bottom view of the fuselage and fin post construction.  The top edge should match the angle of the turtle deck.  Now you can glue the 3/8" balsa triangle stock to the rear of the fin again making sure it is centered.  Sand the fin trailing edge so that is blends smoothly into the fuselage sides.

5.  Pre-hinge all the control surfaces using CA hinges or your favorite brand by cutting appropriate slots in each corresponding surface making sure you cut the slots dead center on the triangle stock.  Do not glue the hinges in until final assembly of the model but trial fit each surface to assure proper alignment and function.

COVERING and FINAL ASSEMBLY:

1.  Cover all the parts first and then assemble the model.  The plans conveniently provide guide lines through the center of the stabilizer that can be used to align your covering while leaving the center bare.  After covering, cut open and iron down the edges of all the servo and hatch openings.  Also be sure to seal any exposed wood with a thin coating of epoxy to prevent engine oil from soaking in.  This is especially important around the engine compartment and servo openings with exposed areas.  OMP recommends sealing the hinge gaps using strips of appropriate covering or clear trim tape after final assembly.

2.  Two guide holes are provided in the ply fuselage doublers for mounting the main landing gear.  Drill these all the way through to accept a 8-32 bolt.  Match drill the gear provided and secure to the fuselage using 8-32 x 2" socket head bolts and nylon insert lock nuts.  Mount 2.5" wheels by installing a 8-32 x 1.25" socket head bolt into the wheel, installing a 8-32 nut on the bolt (tighten just enough to allow the wheel to spin freely), inserting into the gear and securing with a 8-32 nylon insert lock nut on the inside.  Mount a suitable tail wheel assembly to the hardwood mount in the rear of the fuselage.  Hint: harden the screw holes with thin CA before final mounting.

3.  Trim the aluminum bearing sleeve provided for the elevator torque rod to 1 3/8" long.  Drill out the guide hole provided in the fuselage using a 3/16" drill bit.  Rough up the aluminum with fine sandpaper slightly, make sure it is centered by measuring the amount extending on both sides (about 1/4") and when satisfied, wick thin CA into both sides.  Now drill out the guide holes in the plywood control horns using a 5/32" drill bit and press one of the large horns over one end of the carbon shaft followed by one of the small horn doublers.  Align each as shown in the photo below and glue with thin CA around all joints.  Try not to get any glue around the part of the carbon shaft that will ride inside the bearing.  Now insert the assembly into the bearing sleeve and press on the opposite plywood horn and doubler leaving a small gap between the control horn and sleeve so there is no binding.  Make sure they are in alignment with the opposite side (hint:  use the stab opening as an alignment guide) and secure with thin CA.  DO NOT get any glue on the back side of the horn next to the aluminum sleeve or you will glue the whole thing together!  You only need to wick thin CA over the end of the carbon shaft to provide sufficient bond.  Cut off the excess carbon shaft using a razor saw.

Note:  As an alternative to the torque rod method, you can easily install a second elevator servo directly under the stock location with the servo control horn facing up.  Utilize the rudder servo wire tunnel to feed the second elevator servo wire forward to the receiver.  

4.  If you have not pre-hinged all your control surfaces, now is the time to do it.  Trial fit each surface into it's respective part and when satisfied, glue each hinge only into the control surface side and set aside for later. 

5.  If the stab is covered all the way, be sure to cut away the covering (7/8" wide) in the center for the glue to adhere properly.  Be extremely careful not to cut any of the wood or you will weaken the stabilizer and cause possible failure!  Temporarily install the wings and fit the stabilizer into position.  Use string to measure from the stab corners to a common point near the front of the fuselage or the wing tips.  A carpenter’s square can also be used to align the stab TE to the fuselage side.  Also make sure the stab is parallel to the wings.  Sand or file as necessary.  When satisfied with the fit, glue in place by wicking thin CA into the joints making sure the stab is correctly positioned as described above.  You can add a small filet of glue at the fuselage/stabilizer joint using thick CA or your favorite adhesive.

6.  Permanently glue in each control surface making sure the hinge gaps are as tight as possible while still retaining maximum throw.

7.  Trial fit your engine and mark the location for each mounting hole.  The location can be moved forward or aft depending on balance requirements.  Note:  You may wish to wait until all your radio gear is installed before completing this step.  Drill the holes and mount your engine using bolts and blind nuts.  Use thin CA on the inside of the holes to harden them up.  You should use a couple of wedge plates or washers under the front of the engine to induce about 2 degrees of right thrust.

8.  Mount your  fuel tank (10 - 12 oz nominal) on the left side of the fuselage centered behind the engine mount.  Use two pieces of 2-56 pushrod material about 7" long each to form the mount.  Place the tank in position and drill two sets of holes about 4 inches apart on the top and bottom sides of the tank.  Bend the pushrod wire into a U shape with 2” on either leg and 3” in the middle.  Push these pieces through the holes you just drilled from the opposite side of the tank and bend hooks on the other side using long-nose pliers.  The tank can then be mounted using rubber bands to secure.  Alternatively, you can use plastic zip-ties to anchor the tank.  Be sure to use a piece of foam between the tank and fuselage to reduce foaming.

9.  Mount all the control horns to the surfaces as shown in the photos.  For maximum surface deflection, trim off the bottom few holes of the control horns so they won't bind when deflected fully.  You will have to obtain longer mounting bolts for the aileron horns (about 1"-1 1/8" long) if using the nylon horns or you can use the common 6-32 control horn bolt with clevis adapter.  Use the plans to remind you where the aileron horn mounting location is.  Again, harder the mounting holes by wicking thin CA into the holes prior to final installation.   

RADIO INSTALLATION AND SETUP:

You will require at least a 4-channel radio system with 5 standard size servos.  To take full advantage of the flight performance, a radio system with mixing capabilities is best.  This will greatly enhance the maneuverability of your model.  A good example would be coupling the elevators to the flaps.  This can be done in both directions.  For example you can mix up flaps with down elevator (and vise versa) for really tight turns or loops.  This is commonly referred to as "flaperons" and requires the aileron servos to be plugged into separate channels, usually 1 and 6.  You can also mix up flaps with up elevators for quick descent elevators; this is referred to as "spoilerons".